Thanks for visiting my blog, but don't worry, this won't be a typical blog with daily ramblings. It's just a convenient (and free) place to put things that I want to share with others to try and make their RV experience more enjoyable.
On the right is a list of topics. Click on the link to go directly to it. You might have to expand each month/year to see them all, but they're also all here on this one page. If you'd like to share the information with someone, go right ahead. Just copy the URL in the browser address bar
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Happy Camping!
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Get weighed
Weighing your car, truck, motorhome or trailer is fairly simple. All you need to do is find a scale to put it on. You can find them at most truck stops (Flying J), large recycling centers, waste transfer stations, and along most major highways. Some are free, othere may have a small fee. Check them out first before you take your rig there so you'll now what to do.
How to weigh is fairly simple, but it will depend on how long you are and how many individual scales there are.
Most truck stops have 3 separate platforms, so this makes it easy. Positon your rig so that each axle (or pair of axles) is on a separate platform and get a weight reading.
If there are only 1 or 2 platforms available, use them the best way you can to get individual axle weight readings. If it is just one long platform, pull onto (or off) the platform one axle at a time and get a reading. You'll need to do a little math to figure out how much weight is really on each axle. If there is someone working the scales, they may be able to help you with this.
Once you have your weight readings, compare them to the vehcile or trailer's GVWR and GAWR's for each axle. Also compare the total weight of vehcile and trailer to the GCWR.
DO NOT EXCEED THESE RATINGS!!! They are there for a reason...your safety and everyone else on the road.
Also check the load capacity of your tires. Each axle weight reading should be less than the combined weight rating of each tire. It's not uncommon for the GAWR to be more than the combined weight rating of each tire, and that's fine, but we really don't care about that. It's the GAWR we want to pay attention to.
If you are over any of the ratings, you'll need to lighten the load somehow. If it's a GAWR you're over, it could be as simple as moving things around. But if it's the GVWR or GCWR you're over, you need to take something out to lighten the load.
If you're looking at buying a new or used RV, it would be best if you could take it to a scale and get it weighed first because sometimes the "dry" weights listed in the sales brochures or on labels inside the RV are not as accurate as you would hope.
How to weigh is fairly simple, but it will depend on how long you are and how many individual scales there are.
Most truck stops have 3 separate platforms, so this makes it easy. Positon your rig so that each axle (or pair of axles) is on a separate platform and get a weight reading.
If there are only 1 or 2 platforms available, use them the best way you can to get individual axle weight readings. If it is just one long platform, pull onto (or off) the platform one axle at a time and get a reading. You'll need to do a little math to figure out how much weight is really on each axle. If there is someone working the scales, they may be able to help you with this.
Once you have your weight readings, compare them to the vehcile or trailer's GVWR and GAWR's for each axle. Also compare the total weight of vehcile and trailer to the GCWR.
DO NOT EXCEED THESE RATINGS!!! They are there for a reason...your safety and everyone else on the road.
Also check the load capacity of your tires. Each axle weight reading should be less than the combined weight rating of each tire. It's not uncommon for the GAWR to be more than the combined weight rating of each tire, and that's fine, but we really don't care about that. It's the GAWR we want to pay attention to.
If you are over any of the ratings, you'll need to lighten the load somehow. If it's a GAWR you're over, it could be as simple as moving things around. But if it's the GVWR or GCWR you're over, you need to take something out to lighten the load.
If you're looking at buying a new or used RV, it would be best if you could take it to a scale and get it weighed first because sometimes the "dry" weights listed in the sales brochures or on labels inside the RV are not as accurate as you would hope.
How long?
Due to the different characteristics of a fifth wheel trailer, this applies more to a trailer than a fifth wheel.
Why is length such an important factor? Well, it's not really the length of the trailer that is as important as is the size (or wheelbase) of the tow vehicle trying to pull it. The main focus of this is to minimize trailer sway, which in many cases is caused by the wind from either Mother Nature or large vehicles passing you by.
Basically, the longer the wheelbase the better! Think of it as leverage. The longer the trailer, the more leverage it can have on the tow vehicle. The longer the wheelbase of the tow vehicle, the more it can resist the leverage being applied from the trailer. You don't need a crew cab long bed truck to pull a pop-up that could easily be towed by a small SUV. But you don't want to pull a 30' trailer behind that small SUV. You want something longer. But don't get carried away, either. Let's see how it works.
You'll need 2 measurements, the wheelbase of your tow vehicle, and the total length of the trailer you are pulling (or intend to pull). That length is from the coupler to the back bumper.
The First Guideline
(This guideline was first used by the RV Consumers Group rv.org)
For the first 110" of wheelbase, this allows you 20' of trailer.
For each additional 4" of wheelbase, this gets you 1' more of trailer.
Wheelbase / Trailer length
110" = 20'
114" = 21'
118" = 22'
and so on
The Second Guideline
The distance from the coupler to the rear trailer axle should be no more than twice the wheelbase of the tow vehicle.
Why this second guideline? I think this second guideline applies more to non-RV trailers, like boat or flatbed trailers with short (less height) loads on them. Those types of trailers usually do not have the large vertical surfaces (exterior walls) that would be susceptible to wind. You've probably seen a small SUV or pickup pulling a very large boat, right?
If you look at some of the physics and geometry inherent to travel trailers, you might see why length is an important factor to consider. Ever try to carry a full sheet of plywood (or something similar in size) by yourself, on a windy day? It can be pretty difficult to maintain control. But how about carrying a couple of 2 by 4's on that same windy day? Not so hard, is it? That's because the 2 by 4's do not have the same surface area to catch the wind as the sheet of plywood does. So, in a way, that travel trailer is just like a sheet of plywood for catching the wind.
The next thing to look at is how far the coupler is from the trailer tires? The greater the distance, the lesser the impact it will have on the tow vehicle and the less sway it could create. You will see travel trailers of the same overall length with the axles in different locations. This is probably due to the floor plan or layout of the trailer in order to balance the overall trailer, as well as to provide enough, but not too much, tongue weight.
Finally, the ball, or hitch location. How far is it from the tow vehicle's rear axle? The farther away it is (known as rear overhang), the more leverage the trailer can apply to the tow vehicle and create the possibility for more sway. A Jeep or a Hummer would make great tow vehicles because they have very little rear overhang compared to most pickup trucks and SUV's. Another example of this would be in comparing a 2003 Chevy Tahoe to a 2003 Chevy Suburban. The wheelbase of the two are different, but their wheelbase to rear overhang ratios are almost identical. Therefore, both vehicles should be able to handle the same trailer with similar results as far as length is concerned.
If you end up breaking the length guideline by a few feet (3'-4'), you might be okay as long as you have a good sway control hitch or anti-sway bar. Usually, the only way you can tell for sure is taking it for a tow and see how it handles. You may be able to get the RV dealer to let you take it for a "test tow". If you do, keep in mind that the trailer is pretty empty and does not weigh what it will once you pack your stuff in it. If you do decide to purchase based on a successful test tow, make sure you have adequate tongue weight once you are loaded for the road.
If you end up breaking the length guideline by more than a few feet (3'-4'), but are under your weight limits, consider looking at a couple of products that may help this situation. They are the Hensley Arrow coupler, the ProPride 3P and the Pull-rite hitch. Both of these products, as well as their owners, say they do a great job at what they are designed to do, reducing or eliminating sway. So check them out and see what you think.
(The references to the Hensley Arrow and Pull-rite products are not intended as an endorsement or advertisement of either product.)
Our first trailer was a 2001 Prowler 27H (actually 28' long) and I pulled it with a 2003 3/4 ton Suburban using a Eaz-lift hitch setup and a friction anti-sway bar. I was over the first guideline by about 3' and just under the second guideline. Now I'm pulling a 2008 Adirondack 31RL that is 34' long, and I upgraded to a Reese Dual-cam setup. This puts me 9' over the first guideline and just a couple feet over the second. I've never had any serious problems with either setup. The only time I notice any wind is when the big rigs pass me by and the trailer will wiggle a bit, but nothing serious.
Keep in mind that these are just guidelines. There are many factors that could make one combination of tow vehicle and trailer safer or more stable than another, such as the amount of rear overhang, hitch to trailer axle length, hitch setup, load displacement, weather and road conditions, just to name a few.
Why is length such an important factor? Well, it's not really the length of the trailer that is as important as is the size (or wheelbase) of the tow vehicle trying to pull it. The main focus of this is to minimize trailer sway, which in many cases is caused by the wind from either Mother Nature or large vehicles passing you by.
Basically, the longer the wheelbase the better! Think of it as leverage. The longer the trailer, the more leverage it can have on the tow vehicle. The longer the wheelbase of the tow vehicle, the more it can resist the leverage being applied from the trailer. You don't need a crew cab long bed truck to pull a pop-up that could easily be towed by a small SUV. But you don't want to pull a 30' trailer behind that small SUV. You want something longer. But don't get carried away, either. Let's see how it works.
You'll need 2 measurements, the wheelbase of your tow vehicle, and the total length of the trailer you are pulling (or intend to pull). That length is from the coupler to the back bumper.
The First Guideline
(This guideline was first used by the RV Consumers Group rv.org)
For the first 110" of wheelbase, this allows you 20' of trailer.
For each additional 4" of wheelbase, this gets you 1' more of trailer.
Wheelbase / Trailer length
110" = 20'
114" = 21'
118" = 22'
and so on
The Second Guideline
The distance from the coupler to the rear trailer axle should be no more than twice the wheelbase of the tow vehicle.
Why this second guideline? I think this second guideline applies more to non-RV trailers, like boat or flatbed trailers with short (less height) loads on them. Those types of trailers usually do not have the large vertical surfaces (exterior walls) that would be susceptible to wind. You've probably seen a small SUV or pickup pulling a very large boat, right?
If you look at some of the physics and geometry inherent to travel trailers, you might see why length is an important factor to consider. Ever try to carry a full sheet of plywood (or something similar in size) by yourself, on a windy day? It can be pretty difficult to maintain control. But how about carrying a couple of 2 by 4's on that same windy day? Not so hard, is it? That's because the 2 by 4's do not have the same surface area to catch the wind as the sheet of plywood does. So, in a way, that travel trailer is just like a sheet of plywood for catching the wind.
The next thing to look at is how far the coupler is from the trailer tires? The greater the distance, the lesser the impact it will have on the tow vehicle and the less sway it could create. You will see travel trailers of the same overall length with the axles in different locations. This is probably due to the floor plan or layout of the trailer in order to balance the overall trailer, as well as to provide enough, but not too much, tongue weight.
Finally, the ball, or hitch location. How far is it from the tow vehicle's rear axle? The farther away it is (known as rear overhang), the more leverage the trailer can apply to the tow vehicle and create the possibility for more sway. A Jeep or a Hummer would make great tow vehicles because they have very little rear overhang compared to most pickup trucks and SUV's. Another example of this would be in comparing a 2003 Chevy Tahoe to a 2003 Chevy Suburban. The wheelbase of the two are different, but their wheelbase to rear overhang ratios are almost identical. Therefore, both vehicles should be able to handle the same trailer with similar results as far as length is concerned.
If you end up breaking the length guideline by a few feet (3'-4'), you might be okay as long as you have a good sway control hitch or anti-sway bar. Usually, the only way you can tell for sure is taking it for a tow and see how it handles. You may be able to get the RV dealer to let you take it for a "test tow". If you do, keep in mind that the trailer is pretty empty and does not weigh what it will once you pack your stuff in it. If you do decide to purchase based on a successful test tow, make sure you have adequate tongue weight once you are loaded for the road.
If you end up breaking the length guideline by more than a few feet (3'-4'), but are under your weight limits, consider looking at a couple of products that may help this situation. They are the Hensley Arrow coupler, the ProPride 3P and the Pull-rite hitch. Both of these products, as well as their owners, say they do a great job at what they are designed to do, reducing or eliminating sway. So check them out and see what you think.
(The references to the Hensley Arrow and Pull-rite products are not intended as an endorsement or advertisement of either product.)
Our first trailer was a 2001 Prowler 27H (actually 28' long) and I pulled it with a 2003 3/4 ton Suburban using a Eaz-lift hitch setup and a friction anti-sway bar. I was over the first guideline by about 3' and just under the second guideline. Now I'm pulling a 2008 Adirondack 31RL that is 34' long, and I upgraded to a Reese Dual-cam setup. This puts me 9' over the first guideline and just a couple feet over the second. I've never had any serious problems with either setup. The only time I notice any wind is when the big rigs pass me by and the trailer will wiggle a bit, but nothing serious.
Keep in mind that these are just guidelines. There are many factors that could make one combination of tow vehicle and trailer safer or more stable than another, such as the amount of rear overhang, hitch to trailer axle length, hitch setup, load displacement, weather and road conditions, just to name a few.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Definitions
Here are some terms you'll see when shopping for a tow vehicle or RV:
GVWR - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
This is the maximum total weight the vehicle and its contents or trailer and its contents is allowed to weigh according to the design specifications of the manufacturer. Don't go over the GVWR!
GCWR - Gross Combined Weight Rating
This is the maximum total combined weight that the vehicle and anything it is pulling is allowed to weigh according to the design specifications of the manufacturer. This rating can also be used as a gauge for what towing performance might be like. The closer you get to this rating, the worse towing performance may get, especially in windy or hilly conditions.
GAWR - Gross Axle Weight Rating
The maximum weight that can be carried by the axle, including the tire and wheel.
UVW - Unloaded Vehicle Weight
Sometimes referred to as "dry weight", this is what the vehcile or RV is supposed to weigh empty. It also usually (but not always) implies a "basic" or "standard" model...no optional equipment.
TW - Tongue Weight
This is how much weight is on the trailer tongue and is usually measured when the trailer is empty.
NCC - Net Carrying Capacity
This is how much additional (cargo) weight the vehicle or RV can carry. Be careful with this one though. The manufacturers use a simple formula...GVWR minus UVW...to come up with this one, so it doesn't include the weight of any optional equipment.
GVWR - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
This is the maximum total weight the vehicle and its contents or trailer and its contents is allowed to weigh according to the design specifications of the manufacturer. Don't go over the GVWR!
GCWR - Gross Combined Weight Rating
This is the maximum total combined weight that the vehicle and anything it is pulling is allowed to weigh according to the design specifications of the manufacturer. This rating can also be used as a gauge for what towing performance might be like. The closer you get to this rating, the worse towing performance may get, especially in windy or hilly conditions.
GAWR - Gross Axle Weight Rating
The maximum weight that can be carried by the axle, including the tire and wheel.
UVW - Unloaded Vehicle Weight
Sometimes referred to as "dry weight", this is what the vehcile or RV is supposed to weigh empty. It also usually (but not always) implies a "basic" or "standard" model...no optional equipment.
TW - Tongue Weight
This is how much weight is on the trailer tongue and is usually measured when the trailer is empty.
NCC - Net Carrying Capacity
This is how much additional (cargo) weight the vehicle or RV can carry. Be careful with this one though. The manufacturers use a simple formula...GVWR minus UVW...to come up with this one, so it doesn't include the weight of any optional equipment.
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