Leveling and Stabilizing

There are leveling jacks




And there are stabilizers



Stabilizers do just that, stabilize. They do not lift, and are not designed to support much, if any, weight.

Leveling jacks, sometimes called "leveling stabilizer jacks", will (usually) be able lift and support some weight of the trailer. The BAL brand jacks that came on my trailer are rated to lift 5,000# each (there are 4 on my trailer). However, BAL also recommends that you not raise the trailer completely off the ground using the scissor jacks.

Regardless of which type you have, get the trailer level from side to side first. I would recommend to get some of the plastic leveling blocks. I like the Lynx blocks myself, especially now that they have a wheel chock add-on. They are real easy to clean off. If you need to raise it more than one block (1 ½”), put 2 flat on the ground and overlap another one on top of the bottom two. This will raise the tires 2 ½” off the ground and make it easy to drive on and off. I wouldn’t go any higher than 2 blocks because it may make it difficult or impossible for your stabilizers or leveling jacks to do any good without also adding some blocks under them as well.

It might be easier to move the trailer around to a spot that is a little more level.

You can also use wooden boards under the tires to level out the trailer. Make sure you use boards that are at least as wide as the tires are. A few half-inch and a few one inch thick boards should do the trick. You may be able to find some scraps at a local lumber yard for free. If not, and you end up buying an 8' long board, just cut it up into the desired lengths and you'll have some spares. You may want to consider painting or treating the wood somehow so it will last longer. For the length, consider if you will be using wheel chocks or not. If so, make the boards long enough to fit the tire and the wheel chock.

Once you have the trailer level side to side, unhitch and level it up from front to rear.

If you have “stabilizers”, put them down as firmly as you can to reduce trailer movement, but do not over-tighten as this may cause damage to the stabilizers.

If you have “leveling jacks”, you can use them to do some fine-tuning for getting your trailer level if the boards or blocks under the tires didn't get it close enough to level for your liking. Here is the process I have been using since 2001:

1. Lower the front of the trailer about one inch with the tongue jack.
2. Lower the rear leveling jacks until they are snug on the ground. If one side of the trailer is just a little higher than the other, crank the jack on the high side back up 1-2 turns.
3. Use the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer to get the trailer level.
4. Lower the front leveling jacks until they are snug on the ground.
5. Raise the tongue jack slightly so that the trailer weight is on the leveling jacks and tires. Keep the tongue jack down in case one of the front leveling jacks fail.

You can also use this process to take some of the wiggle and bounce out of the trailer while you are inside. What this process does is take just a little weight off of the trailer suspension, which is where most of the wiggle and bounce comes from.

Some people will disagree with my method claiming it will torque or twist the frame and cause problems with doors or windows not opening/closing correctly. But I have confirmed this process with my dealer and the Fleetwood Service department, who all agrees that this process should not cause any of these problems if this process is done correctly. Check with your dealer or manufacturer to verify the correct leveling procedure for your trailer.

Make sure you have wheel chocks on both sides if you are on any kind of hill or slope. If you have tandem axles, use one of those wheel chocks designed to go between the tires, especially on the side that is raised up on leveling blocks. Camping World has a couple different varieties. Do a search for "wheel chock".

Hitch Setup

There are many different brands of weight distribution (WD) hitches, but the basic setup process is similar. Outlined below are the steps you will need to follow to ensure that your WD hitch is set up correctly. Should you change tow vehicles or trailers in the future you will want to do this again to make sure it is set up for the new tow vehicle or trailer.

These instructions are somewhat generic. You should consult the manufacturer’s instructions for additional information and exact assembly instructions.

The purpose of a weight distribution hitch is to remove some of the weight added to the tow vehicle’s rear axle and place some of it on the tow vehicle’s front axle and some on the trailer axles. When properly set up, the trailer should be level and the tow vehicle has settled (or squatted) evenly front to rear or slightly lower in the rear.

For optimum performance of the weight distribution hitch, the tow vehicle should be loaded similarly as to when you would be towing. That means that you should load all the people and cargo into the tow vehicle as if you were going on a trip with your trailer. You may want to do this near your home so that your family doesn’t have to sit in the tow vehicle while you take measurements and make adjustments. It may also help to have a friend take the measurements outlined below, or find a friend that weighs about the same as you to simulate you in the tow vehicle while you take the measurements.

If the tow vehicle has an automatic suspension leveling system, you will need to deactivate it before coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle, but after and passenger or cargo weight has been added.


Step 1 Level the trailer

Find a level piece of pavement to park on for awhile (this may take some time). With the trailer disconnected from the tow vehicle, use a tape measure and the tongue jack to level the trailer. Measure from the ground to some part on the trailer (like the frame) at the front and at the rear of the trailer. Use the tongue jack to raise or lower the front of the trailer until it is parallel to the ground. (The trailer may not be “level”, but it needs to be parallel to the ground.)


Step 2 Measurements

Now that you have the trailer level, it’s time to take some measurements on both the trailer and the tow vehicle. Use a piece of tape to mark each spot because you will need to take the measurements again later. Put a piece of tape at the spots you measured on the trailer to get it parallel to the ground. Put a piece of tape at the top of the front and rear wheel openings on one side

Write down your measurements here:

Tow vehicle front wheel opening height: ________

Tow vehicle rear wheel opening height: ________

Front of trailer height: ________

Rear of trailer height: ________

Measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler and write down the measurement here: ________


Step 3 The hitch assembly

There are usually three separate parts to the hitch assembly:

The shank. This part is what slides into the receiver on the tow vehicle and is usually in the shape of an “L” or a “T”.

The hitch head. This bolts onto the shank and is usually adjustable in height and angle.

The ball. This attaches to the hitch head.

I would suggest that you have an RV dealer or auto repair facility attach the ball to the hitch head because they will usually have the proper tools to do this. The nuts and bolts used to attach the hitch head to the shank are usually pretty large. If you don’t already have the right tools, I suggest getting 2 adjustable wrenches to do the job. If the hitch assembly is already put together, you may need an RV dealer or auto repair facility to loosen the bolts that attach the hitch head to the shank.

With the tow vehicle near the trailer, slide the shank into the receiver, insert the retaining pin and safety clip. Position the hitch head so that the ball height is slightly higher than the measurement you took of the trailer coupler. Many brands suggest 1/16” per 100 pounds of tongue weight (1/8” per 100 pounds for light duty trucks or cars). If you don’t know the exact tongue weight (from a scale), look for the tongue weight on the weight sticker on the inside of a cabinet inside the trailer. Close is usually good enough. When in doubt, set the ball higher than the coupler.

The angle of the hitch head is usually adjustable. Start with a setting somewhere near the middle of the available range. This is the part that may need to be adjusted again later depending on the final outcome. When you put the spring bars (sometimes called torsion bars) into the hitch head and pointed in the direction of the trailer, the ends of the bars should angle down towards the ground slightly. You can go ahead and try this now, but remove the bars before continuing to the next step.

Tighten all nuts and bolts before proceeding to the next step.


Step 4 Hitch it up

Raise the trailer tongue so the ball can fit underneath when backing the tow vehicle so the ball can be positioned underneath the coupler. Lower the trailer tongue until the coupler comes to rest on the top of the ball without putting much weight on the hitch and the coupler latch can be locked in place.

Using the tongue jack, raise (or lower) the front of the trailer until it is level again. Insert the spring bars into the hitch head and swing the other ends towards the trailer. With the saddles in their upright position. Lift up on the chain so it is close to the saddle. Lift up firmly on the chain and mark the chain link that is below the saddle. You will use this link as a starting point for hooking into the saddles.

Use the tongue jack to raise the trailer tongue about 2”. Remove the retaining clip and lower the saddles, insert the desired link into the saddle, raise the saddle back up to its vertical position using the removable handle/bar and insert the retaining clip. Use caution when raising the saddle back to vertical. Excessive pressure could cause the saddle to act as a sling-shot with the handle/bar. If you don’t have the strength to lift the saddle back to vertical, raise the trailer tongue a bit more and try again.

The end goal is to have the spring bars reasonably close to parallel to the trailer tongue. This may require one or more chain links dangling loose from the end, and may require that you use the tongue jack to raise the tongue slightly to accomplish this. Make sure the coupler is locked in place to the ball before raising the trailer tongue.

With both spring bars attached, chains snapped up and retaining clips in place, lower the trailer tongue so that all its weight is on the hitch and the tongue jack is not resting on the ground.


Step 5 Measure again

Take the same measurements you did earlier and compare them to the originals.

The “ideal” result is that the trailer sits level front to rear, the tow vehicle squats (lowers) a bit in the front (but not much), and the tow vehicle squats 1”-2” in the rear (depending on total tongue weight).

If the ideal result has not been obtained, don’t worry, it rarely happens on the first try. Depending on where things are not ideal will determine where you need to make the adjustments.


Troubleshooting

Let’s start with the tow vehicle.

A. Does the tow vehicle squat correctly (a little or none in the front and the same or a little more in the rear)?

If yes, move on to D.

If not, go on to B.



B. Is the front of the tow vehicle higher with the trailer attached than it was without the trailer attached.

If not, move on to C.

If yes, there is probably not enough tension on the spring bars. You will need to increase the angle of the hitch head according to the manufacturers methods. After making the adjustment, re-measure and start again at A. If this does not correct the problem, it may also be necessary to raise the hitch head on the shank.



C. Does the rear of the tow vehicle drop more than 1”-2” with the trailer attached?

If not, move on to D.

If so, there is probably not enough tension on the spring bars. You will need to increase the angle of the hitch head according to the manufacturers methods. After making the adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.



D. Are the spring bars close to parallel to the trailer tongue/frame (or adjusted according to the manufacturer’s specifications)?

If so, move on to E.

If not, you need to adjust the angle of the hitch head accordingly. Make the adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.



E. Is the trailer parallel to the ground or slightly lower in the front than the rear?

If so, this should do it, but check out G below (just in case).

If not, move on to E.



F. Is the trailer higher in the front than the rear.

If not, move on to G.

If so, you need to lower the ball by lowering the hitch head on the shank. If you have gotten this far, that means the tow vehicle is sitting reasonably well, but lowering the ball may change things. While making the height adjustment, also reduce the angle of the hitch head. Re-measure and start again at A.



G. Since you’ve gotten this far, the front of the trailer must be sitting lower than the rear, so here is the final question…

Is the height of the hitch head adjustable by less than the difference in height between the front and rear of the trailer?

Now that may sound confusing so let me give you an example. If the trailer is 2” lower in the front than the rear and the hitch head can be adjusted in 1-1/2” increments, then you need to make that adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.

But if the trailer is only 1” lower in the front than the rear and the hitch head can be adjusted in 1-1/2” increments, then that’s it!

With all of the different adjustments you can make, it may be difficult to find the right combination of hitch head height and angle. You may find yourself taking it apart and putting it back together a dozen times until you find the right combination. Make good notes as you make your adjustments so if you make a change and it makes things worse instead of better, you may need to make a different type of adjustment.

Congratulations!!! You have successfully set up your weight distribution hitch.


Now that you have everything hitched up and level, this would be a good time to see exactly how tall your trailer is. Measure from the ground to what you think is the highest point on the side of the trailer. Then climb up on the roof* to see if there is anything taller than where you measured to, like a roof-top air conditioning unit or vent cover. Add the appropriate distance, and add a few more inches for a safety margin. Write this measurement down on a piece of tape and stick it on the front windshield pillar (driver’s side of course) or some other convenient place. This way, when you pull into a gas station or approach a low bridge or other structure, you’ll know if your trailer will clear it or not.

Towing laws

Instead of re-inventing the wheel here, let me direct you to some other web pages that do a very good job of covering this topic. If you have any questions about the information from these sites, please direct your inquires to them, not me. When in doubt, check with the state's Department of Motor Vehicles (or equivalent).

Site #1

Site #2

Also, check out the Rand McNally Motor Carriers' Road Atlas that may provide additional information about height, weight and width restrictions on specific roads. Navigate to the "travel store", then look for "road atlases".

How much Horsepower?

So, how much horsepower do you really need to pull that trailer or push that motorhome down the road?

Hopefully, this calculator will help you answer that question. (You'll need Microsoft Excel to open it.)

The Oregon Coast

My wife and I lived in Newport for almost 18 months and in Portland for almost 2 years in the early 1980’s. Although things have grown since then, we try to get back as often as we can. Some things have changed, but most have stayed the same. Here are our favorite things about Oregon.

The Coast
The easiest way to travel along Highway 101 on the Oregon coast is from north to south because most of the scenic turn-offs are on the west side of the highway. But if you’re traveling with an RV, it probably doesn’t matter much because a lot of the scenic stops you will probably not be able to stop at due to your size. Anything larger than a 30-35’ motorhome or vehicle with the smallest of trailers may find it difficult (if not impossible) to find a place to park. If you are traveling northbound, it may be more difficult for you to stop at some of the lookouts due to traffic. You may need to continue north and turn around to come back to it. There are some drop-offs along the west side of the road, all protected by guard rails of course, but if the passenger seat occupant is afraid of heights, you may want to travel northbound.

If you are towing a car or trailer, it may be best to drive the road and enjoy the scenery first. Then once you have made it to camp, drive back to spend more time at the spots you saw along the way. Due to check-in and checkout times at campgrounds, you may want to put 3-4 hours between campgrounds. That way, you’re also never too far away from “home”. Astoria, Newport, Coos Bay and Brookings (or other towns close to these) would make good places to call home for a few days at a time. From Astoria, you could explore north to the Long Beach peninsula in Washington and south to Tillamook. From Newport, you could explore north to Tillamook and south to Florence. From Coos Bay, explore north to Florence and south to Port Orford. And from Brookings, explore north to Port Orford and south into northern California and the Redwoods.

Instead of duplicating a lot of information about all the different areas and sites to see along the Oregon coast, I have found some websites that do a very good job of showing the things to see and do and places to eat and stay. Although many of them are for the local Chamber of Commerce, they are full of information on the specific area. If you find other more interesting sites than what I have found, please let me know by posting a comment. In areas that we have explored, I’ve added a little extra commentary for things that may not be easily gleamed from the other websites.

Near the bottom of this post, I have listed many campgrounds that are on or close to the beach.

One of our favorite things to see and visit along the coast is the lighthouses. There are 11 of them, two of which were created by lighthouse enthusiasts. Here is a great website with lots of information on all of them. Guided tours of the lighthouse and keepers quarters are available at Yaquina Head, Heceta Head, Umpqua River and Cape Blanco. Some may charge a small fee. Others may offer self-guided tours. Call/check ahead for times and procedures for getting a tour. Many of the lighthouse locations also make for great vantage points for whale watching. We have seen whales from Yaquina Head, Devil’s Punch Bowl, Cape Foulweather and Cape Mears.

Oregon Lighthouse map

Oregon coast lighthouses


So, starting from the north…

Oregon Coast Visitors Association
This website is packed with information on all the cities along the Oregon coast. Recreation, attractions, annual events, arts, recreation,


Astoria/Warrenton

Astoria/Warrenton Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Astoria
Astoria Column



Seaside

Seaside Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Seaside



Cannon Beach

CannonBeach.net
Cannon Beach Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Cannon Beach

No trip to the Oregon Coast is complete without a visit to Cannon Beach to see Haystack Rock. Okay, yes, it's just a rock...a very BIG rock...just offshore. When the tide is low enough, you can almost walk out to it. But be careful, the tide can sneak back in on you if you're not paying close attention.

Nehalem Bay State Park
In early 2008, we stayed here with some friends for a long weekend. As most of the Oregon State Parks go, this one was noe exception. It was very nice! Most sites are very large (long and wide enough for most rigs). The only thing to watch out for is the low overhang of some trees at the sites. If you go here, don't drive into the town of Nehalem Bay. Although you can get to the park from there, it is not a good route for RV's and is not well marked. The entrance to the park is just south of town on 101 at the Shell station Follow the road and the signs to the state park. Don't worry, it's back there aways, you'll find it.


Tillamook

Tillamook Chamber of Commerce
Tillamook Naval Air Museum
Tillamook Cheese

The streets in downtown Tillamook are a bit on the narrow side, so beware of parked cars and where your RV is. I saw one pickup that had left the slip-on camping mirrors on, which was an obvious mistake based on the position and condition of the mirror.

The Tillamook Cheese Factory has some RV parking south of the visitor center (behind the Chamber of Commerce building). Just watch how you park and make sure others have a way to leave without waiting for you to leave.

Munson Creek State Park is definitely not RV friendly! Do not drive anything other than a car, SUV or pickup down this road! The longer the vehicle, the harder a time you will have turning around at the end of the road. A very narrow 2-lane road (if you could even call it 2 lanes) leads you from highway 101 back about 2 miles to the falls. There isn’t much parking to speak of at the end of the road where the turn-around is and where the hiking trail begins. It’s a relatively easy hike, but in my opinion, not really worth the limited view of the falls. Too much growth has covered what you can see of the falls.

Cape Mears Lighthouse is at the north end of the...Three Capes Scenic Drive. Just remember, what goes down the trail that leads to the lighthouse must come back up the same trail. Actually, there are 2 trails…one along the edge of the cliff on the south side overlooking the ocean and the other about 200 feet to the north, separated by woods. Both are equally steep. The lighthouse is self-guided with a ranger at the top explaining the history and function of the lighthouse. There is a small gift shop at the bottom.

One slow stretch of highway 101 is between Beaver and Oretown with several 35-45 mph curves.

Just south of Neskowin is a good-sized hill that is probably in the 6-7% range. The northbound climb is about 2.5 miles while the southbound climb is only about 2 miles. Although many of the curves are not marked with suggested speed signs, most are in the 45-50 mph range for my personal comfort zone

We stayed at Pleasant Valley RV Park in August 2004. It was formerly a KOA (you could tell based on the A-frame style of the building, and confirmed by the owners). It was a nice quiet park, far enough off of the highway you really didn’t notice the traffic noise. The aerial photo on their website is from 1989, at least according to a similar one hanging in the store that is dated 1989. There are many more trees there now than what the picture shows, so there is plenty of shade and not much need for an awning, unless you need it for an umbrella. “Showers” were more like a typical “full bath” setup with a sink and toilet all in one room, which is large enough to move around in.

Drive time from Tillamook to Lincoln City: 45 minutes.


Central Oregon Coast Association



Lincoln City

Lincoln City Visitor Bureau
Welcome to Oregon – Lincoln City

Drive time from Lincoln City to Depot Bay; 10-15 minutes


Depot Bay

Depot Bay Chamber of Commerce (this can be a slow loading website at times)

A quaint little town with lots of unique shops on the east side of the highway, right across from a very rocky coastline and sea wall which make for great wave action and spray on a stormy day. Depot Bay is probably more famous for having the world’s smallest harbor that has a narrow passage out to the Pacific Ocean. You can catch charter boats for fishing or whale watching here.

Just south of Depot Bay is a turn-off for the Otter Crest Loop, Otter Rock and Cape Foulweather. (Heading from the south there is a turn-off just past Beverly Beach.) The road is windy and narrow, and I would not recommend it for larger motorhomes or for large trailers since there are very few places to park or turn around for the larger rigs. If you miss the turn off at the bottom of the hill (from either direction), there is another turn-off at the top of the hill. It’s a good little hill, probably in the 6% range, but less than a mile long in either direction. Cape Foulweather is one of the highest spots that I know of (along with the area around the Sea Lion Caves near Florence) that is right along the coast. On a clear day you can see for miles out to sea, and north and south along the coast. There is also a nice little gift shop here.

Back down towards the bottom of the hill on the south side is Otter Rock, a small little community with more great ocean views. Stop in at Mo’s for some pretty good clam chowder and sandwiches. Here you will find Devils Punch Bowl State Park, which is worth a look-see, especially if there is a storm brewing out to sea. If you go here in/with your RV, don’t go past C Avenue! You may not be able to turn around at the end of the road.

Drive time from Depot Bay to Newport; 10-15 minutes


Newport

Newport Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Newport
Oregon Coast Aquarium
NewportNet (several links to other good sites)

There are plenty of different beaches to explore here. Agate Beach on the north side of town is a great place to look for, you guessed it, agates. Nye Beach is at the end of NW 3rd St. and there is Beverly Beach State Park to the north and South Beach State Park to the south that has beach access and RV sites.

There are two lighthouses here…the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse that was the first lighthouse near Newport but is no longer in operation, and the Yaquina Head Lighthouse just north of Newport that is the active one. (“Yaquina” is pronounced “ya-kwin-ah”) As of our last visit (August 2004), Yaquina Head had guided tours in the morning and self-guided tours in the afternoon. Yaquina Bay lighthouse is self-guided. You may want to call ahead to check first, but most have free tickets you must get early in the day for a later tour. Call the State Park Information Center at 800/551-6949 for details.

There is a Wal-mart in Newport, but at last check, overnight RV parking was not allowed.


Waldport

Waldport Chamber of Commerce


Yachats

Yachats Area Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Yachats


Florence

Florence Chamber of Commerce
Florence Tourism
Welcome to Oregon – Florence
Sea Lion Caves

Here are a couple places where you can rent ATV’s to ride the sand dunes south of Florence.
Sandland Adventures
Sand Dune Frontier


Southern Oregon Visitors Association


Reedsport

Reedsport/Winchester Bay Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Reedsport


Coos Bay/North Bend

Bay Area Chamber of Commerce
A very nice privately done website about the area www.coos-bay.net
Welcome to Oregon – Coos Bay


Bandon

Bandon has an annual Cranberry Festival in early September each year. Check it out on the “Festivals” page here. Bandon Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Bandon
West Coast Game Park


Port Orford

Port Orford Area Chamber of Commerce Tourism
Port Orford Area Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Port Orford


Gold Beach

Gold Beach Promotion Committee
Welcome to Oregon – Gold Beach


Brookings

Brookings-Harbor Chamber of Commerce
Welcome to Oregon – Brookings



Camping on the beach

Here are links to RV parks that I have found that are right along the beach. (If you find any others, please post a comment so I can add them to this list.) The links are provided as reference only, and do not imply any kind of endorsement or rating. (for possible ratings, check out www.rvparkreviews.com Make sure you ask plenty of questions before making reservations!

Some are right on the beach (*) while others are a short walk (**) to the beach.

Astoria
Fort Stevens State Park**

Cannon Beach
Oswald West State Park**

Tillamook
Cape Lookout State Park*

Nehalem
Nehalem Bay State Park*

Pacific City
Cape Kiwanda RV Park**

Lincoln City
Ocean View RV Village**

Depot Bay
Fogarty Creek RV Park*

Newport
Beverly Beach State Park** to the north of town
South Beach State Park** to the south of town
Pacific Shores Motorcoach Resort* (This park caters only to motorhomes 25’ or longer)

Waldport
Beachside State Park*

Seal Rock
Seal Rock RV Cove**

Yachats
Sea Perch RV Park*

Florence
Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park**
Heceta Beach RV Park**

Coos Bay
Sunset Bay State Park**

Charleston
Oceanside RV Park*

Bandon
Beach Loop RV Park**
Bullards Beach State Park**

Port Orford
Humbug Mountain State Park**
Cape Blanco State Park**

Between Port Orford and Gold Beach
Arizona Beach RV Park*

Gold Beach
Ireland’s Ocean View RV Park*
Turtle Rock RV Resort**

Brookings
Driftwood RV Park*
Portside RV Park*
Whaleshead Beach Resort**
Harris Beach State Park**


Here is a link to a complete (?) list of campgrounds and RV parks along highway 101 in Oregon.
www.oregon101.com/rv.html

Here is a website that has links to information on several Oregon cities, not just the ones along the coast (which I have included above).
www.el.com/to/oregon



California
The Trees of Mystery in Klamath is an interesting stop in the Redwoods.



Okay, that’s it!!! I could go on and on looking for links to pack into this webpage. I’m sure if you go to any search engine and type in something like “visit oregon coast”, you’ll find thousands of pages to keep you busy for months.

But if you find one that is really outstanding and feel that I should include it here, by all means let me know by adding a comment and I’ll consider adding it.

About us

My wife and 2 kids have enjoyed our camping trips. It all started in the spring of 2000 when my wife and I were trying to figure out what we were going to do for summer vacation that year. My wife and I had done some tent camping over the past 15 years while on some great motorcycle trips, but it was getting too uncomfortable for my wife due to problems with her back. When my wife and I would go off on our short trips, the kids loved staying with my folks. But now they were getting older, and the grandparents weren’t as much fun as they used to be, so they wanted to go with us more often. No, we didn’t leave them with my parents all of the time, just when my wife and I needed a little break.

To us, the next obvious step up from a tent on the ground was to a tent on wheels (a pop-up). At the time, we had a Dodge Grand Caravan without a tow package. The Coleman dealer said all he would feel comfortable selling us to tow behind the Caravan were a few trailers. A couple of them we felt would be an okay trailer, at least for sleeping in. Anything else like cooking or eating was going to be cozy, but we felt we could make it work.

Then one Saturday while looking through the newspaper, I saw an ad for a nearby RV dealer that had a small travel trailer on sale for about the same price as the Coleman we were looking at. I think it was around $8,000. So I thought, hey, lets go see what this trailer looks like for comparison. Well, it looked pretty good, but it didn’t have the sleeping capacity we needed. This led us to looking at other travel trailers and even some fifth wheel models. We knew that if we wanted one of these, we would have to get something else to tow it with.

So, off to the Ford, Chevy and Dodge dealers to see what they had that would pull a trailer. We hadn’t decided on which trailer yet, so we looked at the SUV’s and crew cab pickups knowing that our kids were still growing and would be going with us for a few more years. My wife liked the people capacity of her van, so that steered us towards the SUV’s. We all sat in all of them to see what was most comfortable, and ended up choosing the Chevy Suburban.

Now, which one do we get? Which engine and rear axle do we need? Like most beginning RV’ers, we looked at the tow ratings and compared them to the trailers we were considering. As we would discover later, that was a mistake! We narrowed our trailer selection down to 2, a Prowler 27H and I forget what the other one was. The second one was a bit over the towing capacity weight of the Suburban we were considering, so we ended up getting the Prowler and a 2001 Suburban 4WD K1500 1/2 ton LT package with a 5.3 liter engine and 3.73 rear end with a towing capacity of 7,600#. Exactly what the trailer GVWR was. Perfect fit! Yeah, right! (as I would find out later)

We picked up our new Suburban in February and the new trailer in March of 2001. It seemed to be a reasonable combination for the first year we had them. Due to work schedules, we weren’t able to get away as much, or as far, as we wanted to that year. But we figured we could plan a great trip for the next summer, one my wife and I had talked about for a couple of years. It involved going from Seattle down to Arches National Park, over to Bryce and Zion, through Las Vegas to Disneyland, and home along the California and Oregon coasts. We figured it out and it was going to take 3 weeks and about 3,700 miles of driving to do what we wanted to do along the way, and that’s just from one campground to the next.

It was a great trip, except for the heat. We knew it was going to be hot in late June and early July where we were going. But pulling the trailer up some of the hills along the way was another story. We had had some experience pulling the trailer up a few hills on the short trips we had taken already. Nothing real steep or long, but we noticed the Suburban had to work at it a little. And we had been along most of the same route before in different pieces, so we knew where most of the big hills were. I picked up a copy of Mountain Directory West, just to make sure. Yep, there were a couple we missed, and they were kind of steep! We planned to get an early start when we had some driving to do over those hills, and that probably helped some. But the poor Suburban had a hard time on a couple of them.

Eastbound on I-84 from Pendleton to La Grande, Oregon. Westbound on I-70 from Green River to Joseph, Utah. Northbound I-5 in northern California and southern Oregon. There were some steep hills along these roads that had us down to 35 miles per hour at some points. Didn’t have any problems going down any hills, just put the tranny is second gear and it held the speed rather well.

Somewhere along the trip, we figured we might need a bigger truck to pull this trailer of ours. We didn’t want a smaller trailer because we had looked at so many that were smaller than what we had that just wouldn’t be comfortable for us. It was too late to get a 2002 model the way we wanted, and the 2003’s weren’t out yet and we didn’t want to pay a premium for a brand new model, so we waited. We knew we were not going to be taking any long trips like the summer trip we just did, so a few more months with the 1/2 ton would be okay.

By now, I had found out more information on the internet than I knew before. I found a couple of RV related forums and started reading everything I could to make sure my next truck would handle the load. We have the same trailer, but now have a 2003 Suburban 3/4 ton 4WD K2500 LT package with an 8.1 liter engine and 3.73 rear end with a towing capacity of 10,100#. Sounds like plenty of truck, almost over-kill, doesn’t it? Not really!